Plant spring-flowering bulbs over the holidays!

September 4, 2014 – 03:14 am

Grape HyacinthsYou can plant spring-flowering bulbs outdoors over the holidays.
Here’s some tips from Master Gardener, Christa Watters:

Procrastinators rejoice! Though those of us who grew up in colder climes may think it’s too late to plant our bulbs for spring bloom, it’s really not – at least not for all bulbs. Tulips, for example, can rot in the ground in our heavy Virginia soil during warm, wet falls. Some sources say that waiting until about first frost is better for tulip bulbs, which like colder climates. Plus, it gives the squirrels less time to dig them up before frost hardens the ground. Still, you need to get them in before the ground really freezes.

2 - Glossy Tulip PerfectionSo November, and sometimes even early December is still fine. It’s also fine for planting daffodils and narcissus bulbs, hyacinths, crocuses, even grape hyacinths.

Grape Hyacinths

Be generous – color massing is the most effective way to create an impressive and heart-lifting display next spring. So cluster the bulbs in drifts that complement the rest of your borders or beds.

3 - Kaufmanniana Tulips Closeup

Cluster complementary colors in your borders for maximum effect.

In our area, most hybrid tulips don’t successfully come back in succeeding years, and should thus be treated like annuals. If you do leave them for a second year, choose Darwin varieties, some authorities recommend. Alternatively, choose species tulips that generally perennialize better and naturalize well in rock garden clusters, as in this photo of Kaufmanniana tulips at the Simpson Waterwise Garden.

4 - White and Yellow

Kaufmanniana Tulips

Daffodils and narcissi are much more reliable at coming back year after year and even multiplying in the ground. Choose some bulbs for their massing effect, yes. But also consider choosing some for their individual beauty, like these gracefully winged white and yellow Cyclamineus narcissi.

Cyclamineus narcissi

5 - Autumn Crocus Colchicum Lavender Colchicum

Source: blogs.ext.vt.edu


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I would keep cutting bush 1

To only have stem growing from above that big bulbous knot. If I were going to move one, I would move #1 because it seems like it was either planted too high or the rootstock has become so aggressive it is pushing itself up to take over. I have one doing that right now and have suckers from the roots constantly. I will have to move and replant it in the fall. I think the big knot was the original graft. Don't be afraid to cut it all the way back, since it appears to be really hardy and strong.
Bush #2 should also have all suckers removed to see if there is any grafted plant left. If none is there you can determine if you want to keep it or not, by how well you like it

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